1. When the flooring
is to be installed directly on concrete, a PE film must first
cover the subfloor (6 - 8 mil /0.2 mm vapor barrier), prior to
installing PE foam (3/32- 2.4 mm). Overlap PE film by 8/20
cm and tape the seams. Allow PE film to rise +/- 2/5 cm up
the walls. Lay foam in the same direction as the floor. Do not
overlap. When starting the installation, it is best to begin in
a corner. Lay the first panel with the groove towards the wall.
Set the distance to the wall (5/16/8 mm) using the laminate
flooring spacers. Then fit the first 3 rows of panels without
gluing.
2. For accurate
cutting of the last panel, rotate through 180 degrees and (with
the pattern upwards) place beside the already existing row, so
that tongue lies over tongue. Include the 5/16/8 mm in play
at the end. When using hand saw, always saw from the upper
surface of the panel in order to avoid splintering the edges.
When using an electric jig saw or a hand-held circular saw the
patterned side must be placed facing downwards.
3. Important:
The panels must follow the line of the wall. If the wall is not
straight, then the line of the wall must be marked on the first
(still unglued) panel row using a spacer. Either saw the panels
longitudinally according to the marking or use the tapered
spacers to ensure squareness.
4. Check that the
first row is straight using the guideline. Start each new row
with the leftover piece from the previous row. However, the end
of each panel row should be staggered by at least 16/40 cm
from the previous row. If not, shorten the first panel. This way
you will ensure the best appearance.
5. Gluing the panels.
The adhesive is to be applied to the top of the tongue of the
panel on the floor (as per the sketch), both lengthwise and
crosswise. Also apply adhesive to the bottom of the groove of
the panel being installed, both lengthwise and crosswise. Allow
excess adhesive a slight drying period (+/-15 minutes), then
remove with a plastic spatula. Clean remaining adhesive film
with a damp cloth. Cloth should be rinsed frequently.
6. Now panel to panel:
carefully but firmly join the panels completely with hammer and
tapping block. Once the seams are clean and tight, it is
recommended to tape the seam with a good quality tape (i.e.
2/ 5 cm ) to avoid plank movement. Warning: do not damage the
tongue side of the panel. Ensure that the tongue of the panel is
seated in the groove of the Laminate Flooring tapping block!
7. Ensure that the first two rows are laid exactly straight.
A chalk line or straightedge will help to verify this.
Note: It is imperative to stagger the end seams to ensure a
solid floor construction and maximize appearance.
8. And now row after
row: Always place the first panels of a row together without
gluing, fit together, saw to size - and then glue. Always use
the specially designed pull-bar for the last panel.
Note: An alternate panel tightening technique is the patented
Quick-Fit system. Simply attach suction cups on alternating
panels and tighten straps using the lever-action device.
9. Where heating pipes
or room dividers, for example, protrude from the floor, first
cut the panel to the correct length, then lay the panel beside
the actual position, measure the recesses with a ruler and draw
it
in.
10. Now drill out the
marked sections: remember the 5/16/ 8mm in spacing - on all
sides! This means hole diameter = diameter of heating pipe +
5/8/16 mm in expansion allowance.
11. Saw the panel
through the bored holes. When using a handsaw, remember: always
saw the panels from the upper side. Only place the pattern side
facing downwards when using a jigsaw or hand-held circular saw!
12. Apply glue to the
sawn-off piece and press tightly together behind the heating
pipe (using the pull-bar).
13. When a doorframe
has to be shortened: lay a panel next to the frame (with the
pattern side downward). Cut into the doorframe with a straight
back saw, then slide panels under the frame with pattern side
upwards.
14. Now were in the
home stretch! Measure the exact width of the last row. To do
this lay a panel on the previous row. Then lay a second panel on
the panel to be measured with the tongue to the wall and use a
straight-edge. Dont forget the wall spacing! Saw the panel
along the marking.
15. Your installation
is almost finished! Fit the last panel carefully using the
pull-bar. Allow 24 hours before you walk on the floor.
1. When the flooring
is to be installed directly on concrete, a PE film must first
cover the subfloor (6 - 8 mil /0.2 mm vapor barrier), prior to
installing PE foam (3/32- 2.4 mm). Overlap PE film by 8/20
cm and tape the seams. Allow PE film to rise +/- 2/5 cm up
the walls. Lay foam in the same direction as the floor. Do not
overlap. When starting the installation, it is best to begin in
a corner. Lay the first panel with the groove towards the wall.
Set the distance to the wall (5/16/8 mm) using the laminate
flooring spacers. Then fit the first 3 rows of panels without
gluing.
2. For accurate
cutting of the last panel, rotate through 180 degrees and (with
the pattern upwards) place beside the already existing row, so
that tongue lies over tongue. Include the 5/16/8 mm in play
at the end. When using hand saw, always saw from the upper
surface of the panel in order to avoid splintering the edges.
When using an electric jig saw or a hand-held circular saw the
patterned side must be placed facing downwards.
3. Important:
The panels must follow the line of the wall. If the wall is not
straight, then the line of the wall must be marked on the first
(still unglued) panel row using a spacer. Either saw the panels
longitudinally according to the marking or use the tapered
spacers to ensure squareness.
4. Check that the
first row is straight using the guideline. Start each new row
with the leftover piece from the previous row. However, the end
of each panel row should be staggered by at least 16/40 cm
from the previous row. If not, shorten the first panel. This way
you will ensure the best appearance.
5. Position the panels
to be installed on the same level so that the tongue and groove
are laying parallel to each other with a minimum of spacing.
Joint the two panels together using a hammer and tapping block.
Please note that tapping too hard may damage the side of the
panel and result in a weak seam. Start on the right side and
work towards the left side. Once the tongue has S N A P E
D into position in the groove, the panels are firmly and
securely jointed together by the SNAP connection system.
In heavy traffic areas, it is recommended to use QUICKSTYLE
laminate glue on the top of the tongue and on the bottom of the
groove.
6. Ensure that the
first two rows are laid exactly straight. A chalk line or
straightedge will help to verify this.
Note: It is imperative to stagger the end seams to ensure a
solid floor construction and maximize appearance.
7. Where heating pipes or room dividers, for example,
protrude from the floor, first cut the panel to the correct
length, then lay the panel beside the actual position, measure
the recesses with a ruler and draw in.
8. Now drill out the
marked sections: remember the 5/16/ 8mm in spacing - on all
sides! This means hole diameter = diameter of heating pipe +
5/8/16 mm in expansion allowance.
9. Saw the panel
through the bored holes. When using a handsaw, remember: always
saw the panels from the upper side. Only place the pattern side
facing downwards when using a jigsaw or hand-held circular saw!
10. Apply glue to the
sawn-off piece and press tightly together behind the heating
pipe (using the pull-bar).
11. When a doorframe
has to be shortened: lay a panel next to the frame (with the
pattern side downward). Cut into the doorframe with a straight
back saw, then slide panels under the frame with pattern side
upwards.
12. Now were in the
home stretch! Measure the exact width of the last row. To do
this lay a panel on the previous row. Then lay a second panel on
the panel to be measured with the tongue to the wall and use a
straight-edge. Dont forget the wall spacing! Saw the panel
along the marking.
13. Your installation
is almost finished! Fit the last panel carefully using the
pull-bar. Allow 24 hours before you walk on the floor.
1. When the flooring
is to be installed directly on concrete, a PE film must first
cover the subfloor (6 - 8 mil /0.2 mm vapor barrier), prior
installing PE foam (3/32- 2.4 mm). Overlap PE film by 8/20
cm and tape the seams. Allow PE film to rise +/- 2/5 cm up
the walls. Lay foam in the same direction as the floor. Do not
overlap. When starting the installation, it is best to begin in
a corner. Lay the first panel with the groove towards the wall.
Set the distance to the wall (5/16/8 mm) using the laminate
flooring spacers. Then fit the first 3 rows of panels without
gluing.
2. For accurate
cutting of the last panel, rotate through 180 degrees and (with
the pattern upwards) place beside the already existing row, so
that tongue lies over tongue. Include the 5/16/8 mm in play
at the end. When using hand saw, always saw from the upper
surface of the panel in order to avoid splintering the edges.
When using an electric jig saw or a hand-held circular saw the
patterned side must be placed facing downwards.
3. Important:
The panels must follow the line of the wall. If the wall is not
straight, then the line of the wall must be marked on the first
(still unglued) panel row using a spacer. Either saw the panels
longitudinally according to the marking or use the tapered
spacers to ensure squareness.
4. Check that the
first row is straight using the guideline. Start each new row
with the leftover piece from the previous row. However, the end
of each panel row should be staggered by at least 16/40 cm
from the previous row. If not, shorten the first panel. This way
you will ensure the best appearance.
5. Position the panels
to be installed on the same level so that the tongue and groove
are laying parallel to each other with a minimum of spacing.
Joint the two panels together using a hammer and tapping block.
Please note that tapping too hard may damage the side of the
panel and result in a weak seam. Start on the right side and
work towards the left side. Once the tongue has S N A P E
D into position in the groove, the panels are firmly and
securely jointed together by the SNAP connection system.
In heavy traffic areas, it is recommended to use QUICKSTYLE
laminate glue on the top of the tongue and on the bottom of the
groove.
6. Ensure that the
first two rows are laid exactly straight. A chalk line or
straightedge will help to verify this.
Note: It is imperative to stagger the end seams to ensure a
solid floor construction and maximize appearance.
7. Where heating pipes
or room dividers, for example, protrude from the floor, first
cut the panel to the correct length, then lay the panel beside
the actual position, measure the recesses with a ruler and draw
in.
8. Now drill out the
marked sections: remember the 5/16/ 8mm in spacing - on all
sides! This means hole diameter = diameter of heating pipe +
5/8/16 mm in expansion allowance.
9. Saw the panel
through the bored holes. When using a handsaw, remember: always
saw the panels from the upper side. Only place the pattern side
facing downwards when using a jigsaw or hand-held circular saw!
10. Apply glue to the
sawn-off piece and press tightly together behind the heating
pipe (using the pull-bar).
11. When a doorframe
has to be shortened: lay a panel next to the frame (with the
pattern side downward). Cut into the doorframe with a straight
back saw, then slide panels under the frame with pattern side
upwards.
12. Now were in the
home stretch! Measure the exact width of the last row. To do
this lay a panel on the previous row. Then lay a second panel on
the panel to be measured with the tongue to the wall and use a
straight-edge. Dont forget the wall spacing! Saw the panel
along the marking.
13. In the case of the
Herringbone pattern
When installing Big Foot Snap, it is imperative to align the
patterns correctly. In the following example using the
herringbone pattern, begin the first row with the groove facing
the wall. Remember that the first row must be perfectly
straight. In the case of the Big Foot series,and especially with
the Herringbone pattern, each new subsequent row must be
staggered by the width of the plank or approximately 13 inches
(331mm). Do not forget to install the fill piece at the
beginning of each new row.
14. Your installation
is almost finished! Fit the last panel carefully using the
pull-bar. Allow 24 hours before you walk on the floor.
1. When the flooring
is to be installed directly on concrete, a PE film must first
cover the subfloor (6 - 8 mil /0.2 mm vapor barrier), prior to
installing PE foam (3/32- 2.4 mm). Overlap PE film by 8/20
cm and tape the seams. Allow PE film to rise +/- 2/5 cm up
the walls. Lay foam in the same direction as the floor. Do not
overlap. When starting the installation, it is best to begin in
a corner. Lay the first panel with the groove towards the wall.
Set the distance to the wall (5/16/8 mm) using the laminate
flooring spacers. Then fit the first 3 rows of panels without
gluing.
2. For accurate
cutting of the last panel, rotate through 180 degrees and (with
the pattern upwards) place beside the already existing row, so
that tongue lies over tongue. Include the 5/16/8 mm in play
at the end. When using hand saw, always saw from the upper
surface of the panel in order to avoid splintering the edges.
When using an electric jig saw or a hand-held circular saw the
patterned side must be placed facing downwards.
3. Important:
The panels must follow the line of the wall. If the wall is not
straight, then the line of the wall must be marked on the first
(still unglued) panel row using a spacer. Either saw the panels
longitudinally according to the marking or use the tapered
spacers to ensure squareness.
4. Check that the
first row is straight using the guideline. Start each new row
with the leftover piece from the previous row. However, the end
of each panel row should be staggered by at least 16/40 cm
from the previous row. If not, shorten the first panel. This way
you will ensure the best appearance.
IF USING CCS-CLIPS FOLLOW STEPS 5 to 8
5. Positioning the
Clip
Attach the CCS Clips into the marked channels underneath the
grooved side of the panel. Fix the clips directly into the
groove of the panel, then insert into the channel. For each
panel, you will need four CCS clips on the length of the groove
side and one on the width of the groove side.
6. Connecting the
panels together
Lower the panel onto the clips and simply slide the tongue of
the new panel into the groove of the panel on the floor.
7. Closing the
transverse seam
Make sure that the panel is 1/4 to 1/2 (6-14 mm) distance
from the front side of the preceding panel. Note the correct
elevation of the panels in order to be sure that the tongues fit
into the grooves along the entire length of the panel.
8. Closing the lateral
seam
Slide the panel sideways into position using a hammer and a push
block. Please note that taping too hard may damage side of the
panel and result in a weak seam.
IF GLUING IS REQUIRED FOLLOWING STEPS 9 TO
12
9. Gluing the panels.
The adhesive is to be applied to the top of the tongue of the
panel on the floor (as per the sketch), both lengthwise and
crosswise. Also apply adhesive to the bottom of the groove of
the panel being installed, both lengthwise and crosswise. Allow
excess adhesive a slight drying period (+/-15 minutes), then
remove with a plastic spatula. Clean
remaining adhesive film with a damp cloth. Cloth should be
rinsed frequently.
10. Now panel to panel: carefully but firmly join the panels
completely with hammer and tapping block. Once the seams are
clean and tight, it is recommended to tape the seam with a good
quality tape ( i .e. 2 / 5 cm ) to avoid plank movement .
Warning: do not damage the tongue side of the panel. Ensure that
the tongue of the panel is seated in the groove of the Laminate
Flooring tapping block!
11. Ensure that the
first two rows are laid exactly straight. A chalk line or
straightedge will help to verify this.
Note: It is imperative to stagger the end seams to ensure a sol
id floor const ruct ion and maximize appearance.
12. And now row after
row: Always place the first panels of a row together without
gluing, fit together, saw to size - and then glue. Always use
the specially designed pull-bar for the last panel.
Note: An alternate panel tightening technique is the patented
Quick-Fit system. Simply attach suction cups on alternating
panels and tighten straps using the lever-action device.
13. Where heating
pipes or room dividers, for example, protrude from the floor,
first cut the panel to the correct length, then lay the panel
beside the actual position,measure the recesses with a ruler and
draw in.
14. Now drill out the
marked sections: remember the 5/16/ 8mm in spacing - on all
sides! This means hole diameter = diameter of heating pipe +
5/8/16mm in expansion allowance.
15. Saw the panel
through the bored holes. When using a handsaw, remember: always
saw the panels from the upper side . Only place the pattern side
facing downwards when using a jigsaw or hand-held circular saw!
16. Apply glue to the
sawn-off piece and press tightly together behind the heating
pipe (using the pull-bar).
17. When a doorframe
has to be shortened: lay a panel next to the f rame (wi th the
pat tern side downward). Cut into the doorframe with a straight
back saw, then slide panels under the frame with pattern side
upwards.
18. Now were in the home stretch! Measure the exact width
of the last row. To do this lay a panel on the previous row.
Then lay a second panel on the panel to be measured with the
tongue to the wall and use a straightedge. Dont forget the
wall spacing! Saw the panel along the marking.
19. Your installation
is almost finished! Fit the last panel carefully using the
pull-bar. Allow 24 hours before you walk on the floor.
1. When the flooring
is to be installed directly on concrete, a PE film must first
cover the subfloor (6 - 8 mil /0.2 mm vapor barrier), prior to
installing PE foam (3/32- 2.4 mm). Overlap PE film by 8/20
cm and tape the seams. Allow PE film to rise +/- 2/5 cm up
the walls. Lay foam in the same direction as the floor. Do not
overlap. When starting the installation, it is best to begin in
a corner. Lay the first panel with the groove towards the wall.
Set the distance to the wall (5/16/8 mm) using the laminate
flooring spacers. Then fit the first 3 rows of panels without
gluing.
2. For accurate
cutting of the last panel, rotate through 180 degrees and (with
the pattern upwards) place beside the already existing row,so
that tongue lies over tongue. Include the 5/16/8 mm in play
at the end. When using hand saw, always saw from the upper
surface of the panel in order to avoid splintering the edges.
When using an electric jig saw or a hand-held circular saw the
patterned side must be placed facing downwards.
3. Important:
The panels must follow the line of the wall. If the wall is not
straight, then the line of the wall must be marked on the first
(still unglued) panel row using a spacer. Either saw the panels
longitudinally according to the marking or use the tapered
spacers to ensure squareness.
4. Check that the
first row is straight using the guideline. Start each new row
with the leftover piece from the previous row. However, the end
of each panel row should be staggered by at least 16/40 cm
from the previous row. If not, shorten the first panel. This way
you will ensure the best appearance.
5. Position the panels
to be installed on the same level so that the tongue and groove
are laying parallel to each other with a minimum of spacing.
Join the two panels by lifting one panel and sliding it into the
other panel. Start on the right side and work towards the left
side. Once the tongue has C L I C K E D into position in
the groove, the panels are firmly and securely jointed together
by the UNICLIC connection system.
6. Ensure that the
first two rows are laid exactly straight. A chalk line or
straightedge will help to verify this.
Note: It is imperative to stagger the end seams to ensure a
solid floor construction and maximize appearance.
7. Where heating pipes
or room dividers, for example, protrude from the floor, first
cut the panel to the correct length, then lay the panel beside
the actual position, measure the recesses with a ruler and draw
in.
8. Now drill out the
marked sections: remember the 5/16/ 8mm in spacing - on all
sides! This means hole diameter = diameter of heating pipe +
5/8/16 mm in expansion allowance.
9. Saw the panel
through the bored holes. When using a handsaw, remember: always
saw the panels from the upper side. Only place the pattern side
facing downwards when using a jigsaw or hand-held circular saw!
10. Apply glue to the
sawn-off piece and press tightly together behind the heating
pipe (using the pull-bar).
11. When a doorframe
has to be shortened: lay a panel next to the frame (with the
pattern side downward). Cut into the doorframe with a straight
back saw, then slide panels under the frame with pattern side
upwards.
12. Now were in the
home stretch! Measure the exact width of the last row. To do
this lay a panel on the previous row. Then lay a second panel on
the panel to be measured with the tongue to the wall and use a
straight-edge. Dont forget the wall spacing! Saw the panel
along the marking.
13. Your installation
is almost finished! Fit the last panel carefully using the
pull-bar. Allow 24 hours before you walk on the floor.
14. Your installation
is almost finished! Fit the last panel carefully using the
pull-bar. Allow 24 hours before you walk on the floor.
GLUED
FLOATING FLOOR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
